The first thing to hit us about Coimbra is the heat. The move inland from the coast has turned the temperature dial up a few notches, and it's a comfortable and dry heat.
The railway station, mysteriously named Coimbra B as if there were an option A, is a 5 minute bus ride from the town centre. Buses run every 7 or 8 minutes, except when they don't show up, so for us a 15 minute wait.
And then a steep climb up the ancient narrow cobbled streets to find our flat, conveniently located in the heart of the old town, near a small shop and a plethora of bars and restaurants
We are staying a stone's throw away from the old Cathedral, which is utterly charming,
and the nearby tabernas are both cheap and cheerful:
we are in a very atmospheric area,
full of students arriving for the start of term. This is like a relic from a different age. The 2nd year students and above are dressed in black, with flowing capes, and get the new students to perform strange initiation rites. These seemingly consist of very loud shouting followed by what looks like a ritual mounting.
For our first day we have booked a walking tour. Our guide is Jose, who has given up a steady job as a pharmacist to become a self employed tour guide. A smart move, as he is excellent and very informative so will do well for himself.
The tour starts in the downtown area, outside the old city walls,
and climbs up through the old town while learning the history of the town and country and what modern day Coimbra is like
The tour finishes in the botanical gardens, which are a peaceful oasis
Coimbra was big in the Roman era, though this aqueduct has needed rebuilding in the middle ages
After lunch we go to the city museum, located on the site of the Roman forum and with an extensive cryptoporticus, an impressive array of arched chambers enabling the construction of the flat forum area atop of a pointy hill
The museum was full of mainly religious paintings and sculptures,
and one or two non-religous items
The next day we decide to explore the university museums.
But first we must replenish our supplies of cash. The university branch of Santander Bank contains an excellent example of Foucault's pendulum, illustrating the rotation of the earth and consequent Correolis effect.
The university museums consist of a number of different attractions. From the vantage point of the Bishop's Palace, confiscated and acquired by the university, there are great views from the balcony
A reconstruction of the head of King Denis I. Although Portugal is now a republic, the presence of its monarchy is never far away
As a former graduate of the chemistry department at Manchester university I feel a visit to Coimbra University's old chemistry laboratory is in order
It has a lovely lecture theatre, but most of the space is given over to the Jesuits, who used to occupy the building before being expelled
The Cabinet of Physics has, for some reason, a marvellous collection of magic lantern slides,
and the Cabinet of Curiosities is just plain bizarre
But the highlight of the tour is a visit to the old library. Photography is banned, the above picture is of a sub-library floor
Also within this section is the university prison, where you could end up if you were caught stealing books from the library, cheating in exams, or probably a host of more minor infractions of the rules
We head to a spot on the old city wall where there is a restaurant giving great sunset views. Unfortunately we can't get in as there is a wedding function. Or maybe fortunately, as we go to a small restaurant across the street where the only table available is the sharing table
So we are sat with Hungarians and Chinese, and later Portuguese from Porto, for a most convivial evening
Amazing atmosphere!
ReplyDelete