We are on a day trip to Sinatra. With five days in Lisbon it seems to make sense to take a visit outside the city. Plus the temperature is forecast to be high, and being in the hills near the coast will be more comfortable. There are a lot of attractions to see, we opt for the fantastical looking Pena Palace
Planning the trip is not straightforward. There are known factors: the train to Sinatra takes 40 minutes, trains depart from Rossio Station in Lisbon, Rossio station is about a 20 minute walk, we can use our Navigate cards for the train, the Sinatra local 434 bus takes 30 minutes to get to the palace, you must book a specific time slot, and to quote the website 'there is no delay tolerance'. There are the unknown factors, how long a queue for the local bus, how long to walk the half mile uphill to the castle entrance in the heat.
We think allowing 2.5 hours, setting off at 9, and opting to pay extra for a transfer to avoid the half mile walk, will give us time to spare, so purchase an 11.30 entry time
We set off on time. The Sinatra train pulls into Rossio Station at 9.30. It's a smooth 40 minute journey. The 434 bus is waiting for us, a bit of a queue but not too bad. But then things start to unravel. No we cannot use our Navigante cards on the bus, no we cannot buy a single ticket, the only offer is for a €13.50 all day ticket. This is a rip off. We won't be spending the day hopping on and hopping off the bus in some sort of city sightseeing way, so I decline this offer. There are taxi offers available, €10, but that leaves us with an unknown problem in getting back. So time to swallow my pride and pay €27 for two tickets on the next bus in line
The journey up to Pena Palace is along narrow, steep, and winding roads. Traffic is very heavy, and progress is slow. I follow every twist and turn towards our destination on the map on my phone, as the countdown timer on our explosive tickets ticks away
Reaching the entrance to the palace estate just after 11 we have used all of our contingency time but everything is still manageable. However, there is a long queue for the palace transfer bus. It is probably quicker to walk up the hill than wait in line, but it seems a finely balanced calculation.
We wait, having been told that there is a 30 minute window within which our tickets are valid, and arrive at the palace entrance 40 minutes later.
Where we join another very slow moving queue to be allowed into the building. This does feel safe though, as everyone here has an 11.30 ticket and refusing entry to all of these people would cause a mini-riot
So we wait patiently and admire the stunning architecture as the line inches forward
Finally, 11.55, we are inside, and the interior is quite breathtaking
The old part of the palace was an old monastery, confiscated from the church when they chose the wrong side of history in a dispute over royal succession. The monks didn't seem to lack for much here
The visit is basically one long queue, snaking through the palace buildings
but there is lots to admire on the way
with gorgeous views over the surrounding hills
and out towards the Atlantic ocean
It does live up to its billing as a fairytale castle
and feels to be growing out of the very rock
If the Royal Palace experience was one of frustration and stress, the exploration of the palace gardens with its peaceful solitude was the perfect antidote and an oasis of calm
Ponds and pools,
beautiful follies
and distant views of the palace atop its hill
Even the ducks have their own fortress
King Ferdinand probably felt the same way. Preferring to spend time in this delightfully small chateau in the woods
Still grand enough, but on a much more human scale
After three hours wandering the wooded gardens, and feeling much more disposed to Pena, we get the bus back down to Sinatra for beer and food. It's a delightful little town,
surrounded by hills and interesting history. Somewhere to return and stay
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